Guardians of the Orkneys: Exploring Ness Battery's Legacy

People know the Orkney Islands for their pre-historic sites and archaeological significance. Nevertheless, there are places that are much more recent and still hold a lot of historical value. Ness Battery in Scapa Flow is one of those sites. Steeped in tales of wartime bravery and technological innovation, Ness Battery reflects the strategic significance and irreplaceability of the Orkney Islands in the modern period.

The Ness Battery Museum is situated on the outskirts of Stromness, overlooking the majestic Scapa Flow. Scapa Flow was a military base during the Second World War. The place experienced heavy losses in the first years of the war, but then it was further enforced to handle German naval and aerial attacks. During this period, anti-aircraft and anti-shipping defences were built, along with heavy artillery batteries, in order to control the attacks.

Ness Battery is one of Britain’s best-reserved wartime sites. This artillery battery would guard the naval base at Scapa Flow. During World War II, Ness Battery played a pivotal role in safeguarding the Orkney Islands against enemy attacks. Manned by brave soldiers, the battery served as a vital link in Britain's coastal defence network.

The wooden huts in the officers’ quarter, which are still there, would house the soldiers who were manning the guns. From housing essential supplies and equipment to providing shelter for personnel stationed at the site, these huts played an integral role in supporting the battery's mission of coastal defence.

The site was still a battery until 1955, when it was closed and only used for army unit training. In 2001, it was then sold to the Orkney Islands Council and is now a museum open to guided tours. Today, the Ness Battery Museum stands as a living monument to the courage and sacrifice of those who served within its walls. Visitors to the museum can explore its labyrinthine tunnels, marvel at its well-preserved artefacts, and gain a deeper understanding of the Orkney Islands' role in shaping the course of history.

Ness Battery is accessible to both drivers and walkers. Once you are in Stromness, the path is pretty straightforward. If you are going to visit the place by car, you should start in Stromness and follow the “Ness” sign. You cannot enter the campsite by car, and therefore, you should instead go to the car park past the golf course. 

If you start from Stromness on foot, you can walk through the site to the point of Ness. There are some kilometres to walk from Stromness, and therefore, you should give yourself plenty of time to reach there.

For those eager to delve into the history of the Ness Battery Museum, a visit to Stromness is a must. Whether you're a history enthusiast, a military buff, or simply someone with a thirst for adventure, the museum offers something for everyone.

The site is open all year round, and apart from scheduled weekly guided tours, arrangements can be made for private parties and groups. The tour takes around 75 minutes in total, and the visitors are allowed to take photos. 

After passing Stromness Golf Club, there is a road that leads to Ness Battery. On the way to the base, you will go through the parking area, where you can see gun and searchlight emplacements.

The guided tour starts at one of the artillery emplacements and continues through underground magazines and arms stores. Then, you will approach the wooden huts and get into the mess hall.

At the mess hall, visitors will be able to observe a large mural painted on the wooden walls, depicting scenes from rural Kent. The murals are most probably artworks of Albert Rycraft Woods, who passed sometime in Orkney, taking care of some of the supplies and military equipment. 

Another highlight of the tour is the Italian Chapel, which was originally constructed by Italian prisoners. In 1942, around a thousand prisoners were brought to Orkney to work on the Churchill Barriers. They resided in Camp 60, built some statues and constructions for themselves. They decided to turn a Nissen hut into a chapel and create a concrete facade for it.

As you conclude your exploration of the captivating history at Ness Battery and the surrounding wooden huts, you can plan a comfortable stay at The Stromness Hotel, with the best amenities a hotel can offer in the Orkney Islands. Staying at a Stromness hotel isn't just about finding a place to rest your head – it's about experiencing the warmth and hospitality for which this town is renowned.